Thursday, October 8, 2009

On Deformed Baguettes

The authorities all say that shaping a good baguette (or even a demi-baguette) takes practice. Indeed, Maggie Glezer even suggests that the professionals can get rusty without practice. I usually content myself with whatever lumpy shape makes it onto the stone, but lately I've made a couple of more conscientious attempts at baguette. The following are the (revealing) results: breads that look like they've exploded out the side, or grown goiters.



The reason for the goiter, of course, is a failure to seal the bottom edge of the bread adequately. The shaping of loaves is supposed to create a taut, smooth surface or "skin" that can help to seal the bread. In shaping a baguette, the baker takes the bread through at least two letter-fold sequences (see Peter Reinhart, The Bread Maker's Apprentice, for pictures).

I've struggled with the sealing-the-edge technique, described as sealing the bread with the heel or the edge of your hand. My dough often seems reluctant to seal, whether due to overworking (should I let it rest, then come back and pinch it again?) or to picked-up flour from the board.

In the meantime, humorous results (this one was more of a batard anyway).





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